Do you really need different products in the morning and at night?
Some skin care companies tell us that we should use different products at night than we do in the morning. On the other hand, there are those who say it’s basically all the same and we’re just wasting our efforts. So, who’s right?
What goes on during the day vs at night?
OK, while it’s true that the skin does different things during the day than it does at night, there are many ingredients, such as antioxidants, that are beneficial to the skin no matter what time of day they are applied.
However, during the day, our skin is dormant. Although we are active, our skin is “sleeping”. And, during this time it’s exposed to all sorts of external stressors, such as environmental pollution, chemical exposures, UVA & UVB rays, air conditioning or heating and the weather.
At night, our skin regenerates. The skin cells are “working”. Not only do the skin cells do their ‘thing’, our cortisol levels reduce at night which means that inflammation decreases and collagen production increases. In addition, growth hormone levels rise at night, which repair damaged cells at the DNA level. So beauty sleep is indeed that!
There is one disadvantage at night: research shows that transepidermal water loss (TWL), which is the measure of the amount of water that passes from inside the body to the outside via the epidermis, is increased. More on that later…
The ideal day time skin care regimen:
Eye cream or serum
Moisturizer (ideally with an SPF) – if you have oily skin it can be a gel
If your moisturizer does not contain an SPF, please apply a separate SPF on top of your moisturizer. Alternatively, check if your makeup has SPF. Then you don’t need to apply it separately.
Ingredients to avoid during the day:
Retinols, but not our retinol alternative products
The ideal night time skin care regimen:
Eye cream or serum
Treatment or moisturizer
Due to transepidermal water loss (TWL) many skin care lines recommend the use of heavier, creamier moisturizers that have a higher oil content to combat the loss of water. The theory is to prevent too much moisture evaporating from the skin. However, Dr.Hauschka Skin Care’s philosophy is that as the skin regenerates during the night, if we put products with a high oil content on the skin, the oil will, in a way, train the skin cells not to complete their intended function. In short, the cream or moisturizer will do the work of the skin cells and therefore make the skin ‘product dependent’. Dr.Hauschka believes in treatments that have little to no oil but that are still full of beneficial ingredients, instead of those heavy night creams. We have had great results with this approach.
I also recommend the use of specially designed pillow cases. Silk is a good fabric. It doesn’t absorb the moisture from the skin. Alternatively, I love, love, love the Pillowcase by Circadia. I have one myself!
Having said all of that, there are some skin types that I have encountered over the years that simply need a cream based moisturizer at night. As we live in Florida, many of us have the air-conditioning on all night and that can exacerbate TWL. So the best thing is to speak to your skin care therapist who knows your skin and can give you the best professional advice.
Ingredients to avoid in the evening:
If you must use a retinol or stronger regular exfoliation, I recommend you do so at night.
If you exfoliate in the evening, the products you apply afterwards will penetrate the skin deeper and hence have more effect on the skin.
Please never, ever wear makeup to bed! Not only because it’s unhygienic but also because free radicals from the environment attach themselves to the makeup and will consequently mean collagen breakdown, which causes premature aging. It can also cause blackheads and acne as the skin is not cleansed properly.
To reserve a complimentary VISIA skin analysis call 941 362 4194.